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All Japan Tokyo Kojo
AO Edited Gastro Obscura

Kojo

This subterranean spot might be the epitome of Japan's baroque, retro coffee houses.

Tokyo, Japan

Added By
Rachel Rummel
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  acco_maash
  Rachel Rummel for Gastro Obscura
  aipii_0817
  tonewiz
The façade.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
An ornate chandelier.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
Classic hotcakes and a glass of iced tea.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
The stained glass window inside the cafe.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
The artwork at the cafe’s entrance.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
  hesocha2
  vaziri57
  tonewiz
The signature milkshake.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
Interior.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
Mont Blanc cake.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
Into the retro underground cafe.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
Interior.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
The classic cafe sign.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
The opulent interior.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
A cup of hot coffee.   Fred Cherrygarden / Atlas Obscura User
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About

Kissaten is a Japanese-style coffeeshop that originally appeared before World War II. Once a massive craze back in the 1920's, the term now refers to a retro, European-influenced type of cafe that has a nostalgic ambience of the Shōwa era (1926-1989). Many continue to exist in a past era that doesn't recognize wi-fi, alternative milks, or to-go orders.

Located in the ever-popular Ueno district, Kojo (officially stylized Kojyo) may be the most ostentatious of such specialty cafes, being an archetype of so-called shiro-kei or "castle-type" kissaten. Such type of cafe is characterized by ornate, sparkling lighting fixtures, European art, and classical music, and Kojo fully lives up to its name, which literally means "old castle."

Inside, you'll find a large Yamaha Electone organ, a Tutankhamun mask, crystal chandeliers, and a massive, Art Deco-style stained glass window. Huge slabs of rock and fake plants divvy up the room, giving Kojo the feel of, to quote a reviewer on Japan Travel, "a mixture between a mountain cave and a southern European church."

Today, these stylized throwbacks stand in contrast to the country's recent influx of third-wave coffeeshops (many of the Starbucks variety). After hopping off the train at Ueno, wander into this portal to an antiquated Euro-dream, pondering bygone design infatuations over a Vienna coffee or the cafe's signature milkshake.

Related Tags

Restaurants Coffee History Unique Restaurants & Bars

Know Before You Go

The fastest way to get here from Ueno Station, if you've taken a Tokyo Metro subway, is to start from Exit 1 and walk for a couple minutes. If you get off at Keisei Ueno Station, go with Ueno Park to your back and it will take you about 10 minutes.

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Added By

rachelrummel

Edited By

Fred Cherrygarden

  • Fred Cherrygarden

Published

July 25, 2019

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Sources
  • https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2017/02/24/food/tokyos-retro-coffee-palaces-class-entirely/#.XTIHetNKgxg
  • https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/guide/NTJculture0041-en/
  • https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/kyoto-kissaten-coffee-shops/index.html
  • https://www.google.com/maps/place/Kojyo/@35.7108802,139.7781644,18.5z/data=!3m1!5s0x60188e98df3f716f:0x48be2c706ef52d6e!4m16!1m9!2m8!1s+Kojo+!3m6!1s+Kojo+!2sHigashiueno,+Taito+City,+Tokyo+110-0015,+Japan!3s0x60188e985edaf2bf:0x14237c387b344046!4m2!1d139.7792663!2d35.7107789!3m5!1s0x60188e98df4627d3:0xf357f0060fe49460!8m2!3d35.7117134!4d139.7790292!15sCgRLb2pvWgYiBGtvam-SAQtjb2ZmZWVfc2hvcA
Kojo
3-39-10 Higashi-Ueno, Taito-ku
Tokyo, 110-0015
Japan
35.711757, 139.77899
Get Directions

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