Atlas Obscura Itineraries

The Secret Lives of Cities: Ljubljana

How many times can a city be called a “hidden gem” before it stops being hidden? Judging by the enthusiastic throngs wandering its cobbled Baroque streets in summer, Slovenia’s capital has certainly been discovered, but perhaps by the wiser tourists. Though it is popular it is never overcrowded, and each visitor who falls for its charms (and they inevitably do) feels as though they’ve stumbled upon a secret treasure. Perhaps this lingering sense of discovery comes from its tricky-to-pronounce name (Loo-blee-ah-nah) or the fact that Slovenia only gained independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, making it feel newly accessible to many travelers. But this very quality is part of its appeal—Ljubljana is a city full of surprises. It’s unexpectedly elegant and prosperous (historically the most developed of the former Yugoslav capitals), remarkably easy to visit , impressively green (a former European Green Capital with the highest percentage of pedestrianized streets in Europe), surprisingly well-connected, and effortlessly cool. With a quarter of its 300,000-odd inhabitants being students, Ljubljana has a vibrant, youthful energy combined with refined Central European charm. Though often grouped with “Eastern Europe,” all of Slovenia actually lies west of Vienna, which was historically its greatest influence, having been part of the Habsburg Empire for centuries. The city center is compact, highly walkable, and photogenic, with minimal Socialist-era architecture disrupting its Old World atmosphere—unlike sister cities such as Belgrade. And then there’s its stunning backdrop: a 30-minute drive north, the snow-capped Alps rise majestically above the skyline. Spend just a few hours in Ljubljana, and it will come as no surprise that its name translates to “beloved.”