From the street, St. James Deli looks like a run-of-the-mill bodega. Inside, it feels much the same. Until you make your way to the back, where you’ll find one of the city’s best taquerias.

The bite-sized eatery is a playground of so many Mexican classics—tacos, tortas, tamales, flautas, burritos, and more, all impressively over-stuffed with carnitas, cesina, lengua, nopales, chicharron, and a host of other favorites—that you’ll wonder how they all fit in the back of a deli. The deep set of breakfast options, which ranges from huevos rancheros to eggs perico, is served all day. 

The space is cozy, with only two or three stools beneath a shallow elbow counter on the wall. So order takeout and peruse the deli’s Mexican spices and dried herbs section while your food is prepared, or grab a beer across the street. The deli also offers plenty of sweets and drinks to round out your meal.

St. James Deli is proof: Some of New York’s best tacos don’t come from restaurants at all.