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All Moldova Soroca Gypsy Hill

Gypsy Hill

Elaborate mansions built by Roma residents in Soroca to show their success after centuries of discrimination.

Soroca, Moldova

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Tiffany Devoy
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  Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
View of Gypsy Hill from Cetatea Soroca (Soroca Fortress)   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
Inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
Family Compound of “The Gypsy King”   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
  peeter6 / Atlas Obscura User
Unfinished home   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
  Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
View from Gypsy Hill: Fortress, the Nistru River and Ukraine   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
Inspired by the Bolshoi Theater   Theophania / Atlas Obscura User
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About

Across the Nistru River from Ukraine sits the Moldovan town of Soroca, known as the country’s Gypsy Capital.

In a country with few tourist attractions, Soroca is comparatively overflowing with them, boasting both a medieval fortress dating from the days of Ștefan cel Mare and several new “fortresses” built by members of the Roma community.

The name “gypsy” is itself controversial, based on a now debunked theory that the Roma people hailed originally from Egypt. Recent evidence suggests that the group actually made their way to Europe from northern India. Because the word “gypsy” is so common, some activists advocate owning and reclaiming it; others feel the name carries too many negative connotations. (Regardless, English language speakers should definitely avoid using the word “gyp," which is a clear racial slur.)

While Roma communities have existed in Europe for a millennium or more, they have often been the target of discrimination and worse. Hundreds of thousands of Roma people were murdered during the holocaust. Today an estimated 10-12 million Roma live in Europe. The largest populations make their homes in former communist countries and nearly all are at the bottom of the economic and educational ladder.

After so many centuries of struggle, it is perhaps unsurprising that those who achieve a measure of economic success want to flaunt it. So on a Sorocan hilltop, amid the broken sidewalks and barely paved roads that reflect Molodva’s status as the poorest country in Europe, Roma residents build elaborate houses, inspired by and borrowing architectural flourishes from famous buildings in wealthier countries including St Peter’s Basilica, the U.S. Capitol Building and the Bolshoi Theatre. Among the mansions is the home of true royalty, the “Gypsy King” Arthur Cherari. 

On Gypsy Hill (Dealul Ţiganilor in Romanian) some of the mansions are unfinished. Others lack creature comforts like indoor plumbing and electricity. Many are large enough to house dozens of people but may remain empty for long stretches of time while their owners earn money elsewhere. Regardless of what these mansions are or are not, a stroll through the neighborhood is an eye-popping experience, juxtaposing real eastern European poverty with knock-offs of wealthier worlds and ideas of what it means to have status.

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Houses Mansions Roma Homes

Know Before You Go

The hilltop is easy to find--one can spot the gold dome from the medieval fortress by the river, the town's major tourist attraction. Be respectful about taking pictures as some are happier to show off their home than others.

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Added By

Theophania

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peeter6

  • peeter6

Published

August 24, 2016

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Gypsy Hill
R7
Soroca
Moldova
48.158009, 28.291971
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