Today, we’ll be exploring some of Almaty, the former capital of Soviet Kazakhstan. Nowadays it’s both a bustling cultural center and a leafy oasis—its name translates loosely to “city of apple trees.” (You can find a giant fountain in the form of an apple, with water trickling down its stony side.) Almaty is filled with treasures from the U.S.S.R. as well as a diverse mix of inhabitants from all around the region. It also happens to be home to the highest ice skating rink in the world. Over lunch and dinner, our guides will continue to walk us through what to expect and what’s in store for the coming two weeks. We’ll dig into the history of the region, outline our route and trip highlights, and discuss the cultural norms and customs to observe as we travel.

As we ease into our new scenery (and the time change), we’ll spend a second day wandering through the city’s colorful markets (such as the Zelionyj Bazaar), traditional cathedrals, sprawling parks, and lively cafes, all set against the dramatic backdrop of the snow-capped Tian Shan mountains. We might even stop to take a photo with the Beatles. In the afternoon, we’ll scope out Soviet mosaics, walk past massive bas-relief tunnels, and pass through bustling bazaars. Our guides will give us more background on Kazakhstan’s relationship with its Soviet past, and the complexities behind sculptures—whether memorials or propaganda—such as the Statue of Panfilov's 28 Guardsmen. Take some time in the afternoon to rest or explore on your own before we gather in the evening for a traditional folk performance. If you’ve still got energy, join us for a nighttime walking tour, our final hurrah in the great city of Almaty.

We’ll depart early this morning and head south to Kazakhstan’s more mountainous little brother, Kyrgyzstan. Our first stop is Bishkek, the country’s largest city and current capital—and former capital of the Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic. Bishkek is home to the country’s National Museum as well as the remnants of a Soviet-era circus. We’ll have lunch and wander through the heart of the heavily Russified downtown, taking in its staunchly Socialist Modernist architecture and art before exploring the city’s outskirts, where more traditional Central Asian architecture prevails. This evening is yours to rest and relax or further wander the town.

This morning, we’ll set out for Tokmok, a small, quintessentially Soviet city that lies a few hours west of Bishkek. As we glimpse socialist memorials, Stalinist architecture, and even a massive monument of a Soviet Il-28 bomber plane, you’ll discover that the city feels frozen in time. We’ll then hit the road again and head to Lake Issyk-Kul, the second-largest alpine lake in the world, as well as the second-largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea. Due to its salinity and size, it never ices over, even as air temperatures dip below freezing. We’ll dip our feet into the water while taking in breathtaking views of the lapping waters and snow-capped peaks looming in the distance. Then, skirting along the northern shore, we’ll stop to visit Soviet-era resort villas and quaint lakeside hamlets. We’ll wind down the day at Cholpon-Ata, a vibrant city with a thriving nightlife, often referred to as the “Kyrgyz Cancun.” Turn in for the night—or if you’ve still got energy—head out and investigate whether the city lives up to its nickname.

We’ll start the day driving along Lake Issyk-Kul as we head toward the busy market town of Karakol. Tucked away in the Tian Shan mountains, the town also boasts a blend of Soviet and traditional Kyrgyz architecture, old churches and bright mosques, and spectacular mountain views. We’ll weave through a series of unique bazaars offering goods ranging from Soviet memorabilia to spices and dried fruit, being sure to stop and taste anything that looks enticing. In the afternoon, take some time to wander on your own—you might consider stopping to check out Dungan Mosque, which resembles a Chinese Buddhist temple and was originally built by a group of Chinese Muslim, known as Dungans, who fled from China. For dinner, we’ll track down some delicious Muslim-Chinese fare that’s become a culinary favorite in Kyrgyzstan—perhaps some cold and spicy Ashlan Fu.

Early this morning, we’ll make our way to the mountain town of Kochkor. En route, we’ll take in a few final glimpses of the Issyk-kul’s glittering waters as we drive along its southern shore, passing natural wonders such as the otherworldly, Mars-like Skazka Canyon and the snow-capped Terskey Alatau mountains. We’ll stop in Barksoon, where the pensive face of Yuri Gagarin, the first man to reach space, has been carved into the side of a massive boulder. Further along on our road trip, we’ll visit the ruins of Aalam Ordo, an unfinished complex once intended to be a center for culture, spirituality, and science. Abandoned in the midst of its construction nearly 10 years ago, its massive murals have started to fade, and its concrete yurts have begun to crumble. We’ll walk through the campus and explore its ephemeral history before hitting the road again. Once we reach Kochkor, we’ll spend a few hours exploring its Socialist Modernist architecture, narrow alleyways, emerald pastures, and skewered shashlik before heading up to Song Kol, an alpine lake surrounded by mountains. We'll spend the night close to its shores in comfortable, spacious yurts. 

Enjoy a leisurely morning on Song Kol. Stroll along its shores, meet with local nomadic herders, or, for the courageous among us, try plunging into its icy waters. After lunch, we'll descend toward the traditional Kyrgyz village of Kazarman through Moldo Ashuu Pass. This route is one of the most scenic in the country, so we’ll be taking plenty of stops to admire the landscape and snap some photographs. We'll arrive in Kazarman in the late afternoon. Feel free to spend the rest of the day exploring the village or resting up for tomorrow's early departure.

Prepare for an early wakeup this morning, as today we’ll be setting out on the longest leg of our journey, driving for about five hours over the course of the day. As we travel west through the valleys of southern Kyrgyzstan, enjoy spectacular views of rolling foothills and vast, arid landscape. Of course, we’ll pause to soak up the scenery and admire Soviet-era bus stops, mosaics, and monuments along the way. We’ll weave through otherworldly rock formations and ancient structures, such as the ornate minaret and mausoleums of Uzgen. Once we emerge from the Kyrgyz backcountry, we’ll find ourselves immersed in the urban sprawl of Osh, the second-largest city in the country home to one of Central Asia’s largest bazaars. Here, we’ll stretch out our legs and track down some dinner.

We’ll spend the morning leisurely exploring Osh in the daylight. We’ll glimpse the controversial Lenin statue that stands directly across from the city hall, visit the elaborate Central Mosque, and wind our way through the stalls of the massive Jayma Bazaar—and maybe even check out Muzey Sulayman Too. Following an early lunch, we’ll set out for northern Tajikistan by way of the Kyrgysz section of the Fergana Valley. As we drive through, we’ll explore the residual devastation of Stalin’s divide-and-rule policy—which we’ll witness close-up as we pass territorial enclaves and exclaves, and learn about the border disputes that continue to rage on today. We’ll arrive in the late afternoon and settle into Khujand, the second-largest city in the country.

Khujand, for a time known as Leninabad, has a rich, documented history that dates back thousands of years before Lenin came into the picture. We’ll trace the city’s many lives through its architecture, glimpsing 20th-century bas-reliefs and mosaics alongside ancient mausoleums and fortresses.

After breakfast, we’ll drive to Istaravshan, where a larger-than-life Lenin statue has found a new home gazing out across a municipal reservoir. We’ll stop along the route at a former Soviet military base before reaching our final destination for the day, Penjikent—once a thriving settlement of the ancient Sogdiana Empire. Here, we’ll spend the rest of the day exploring local street life, ancient frescoes, and religious relics from the pre-Islamic, Zoroastrian civilization that once flourished here.

This morning, we’ll venture deep into the Fann Mountains for a glimpse of the majestic Seven Lakes. Surrounded by gargantuan, jagged peaks, the glittering glacial lakes we’ll encounter are known for their unusual—and breathtaking—hues, ranging from bright turquoise to black. As we traipse through the valley, we’ll stop to visit a local village in the midst of the mountains. The region is particularly conducive to growing apricots, so we’ll keep our eyes peeled for orchards as we travel. In the afternoon, we’ll cross into Uzbekistan and head straight to Samarkand, the ancient Silk Road hub that has for centuries captured the imaginations of travelers and storytellers across the globe.

Believed to be over 2,700 years old, Samarkand was once a diverse trading center along the Silk Road connecting the East to the West, drawing merchants all the way from East Asia to Europe. At the epicenter of it all was the Registan, or “Sandy Place” in Tajik. Comprised of arching, beige madrasas covered in bright blue mosaics, sparkling golden mosques, and sprawling courtyards, the Registan is believed to have been the pulsing heart of the commercial Silk Road city throughout the Medieval Era. We’ll spend the day tracing Samarkand’s spectacular ancient history and architecture, from mosques to mausoleums, alongside its more modern parks and stark Soviet buildings, and tasting some local sweets and specialties.

We’ll depart Samarkand this morning and head west, reaching Bukhara around midday. Bukhara is another spectacular ancient Silk Road city with buildings dating back thousands of years. We’ll wander through the old city center, exploring ancient mosques and the ornate, brick mausoleum of Ismail Samani, who founded the powerful tenth and eleventh-century Samanid dynasty. Later, after a long and leisurely lunch, we’ll visit a massive, Soviet-era wrought iron water tower looming high above the city before taking some time for independent exploration.

We’ll spend the last full day of our Central Asian odyssey exploring the offbeat and unusual sights of marvelous Bukhara, including an all-too-often overlooked stone cemetery that tells the story of a rather obscure Jewish community: the Bukharan are, indeed, an ethnoreligious Jewish sub-group of Central Asia that historically spoke Bukharian, a Judeo-Tajik dialect of the Persian language. In the late afternoon we’ll then indulge in a light (and fun) cooking workshop to learn how to prepare some of the best Uzbek delicacies, on which we will then feast during a grand final dinner to celebrate the conclusion of our journey.

After two adventurous weeks packed with new sights, smells, and sounds, it’s time to say our goodbyes as we head to Bukhara Airport for flights home. Until our next adventure!