After a light breakfast onboard, we’ll set sail north through turquoise waters along the Costa Smeralda, staying close to shore for our first glimpses of the wild Sardinian landscape we’ll explore over the next week. We’ll pass the historic Capo Ferro Lighthouse, and continue to La Maddalena Archipelago. One of several uninhabited islands in La Maddalena, Isola Budelli is famous for its Spiaggia Rosa (Italian for “Pink Beach”)—pollen from a local evergreen tree that gives the sand its rosy hue. We’ll dinghy to shore to meet the island’s longtime unofficial caretaker, Mauro Morandi, and discuss the current ecological challenges facing Budelli and his hopes for the island’s future. Get to know the island’s flora and fauna, see Morandi’s off-grid home built from driftwood and repurposed materials, and learn about his life as the sole inhabitant of this stunning and vibrant landscape for more than 30 years. Back on board for the evening, enjoy the first of many family-style dinners, relax, and stargaze from our anchorage in a secluded cove.

Today we’ll sail to Isola Razzoli, another uninhabited island in the La Maddalena archipelago. Here, we’ll marvel at the island’s red, lunar-like granite formations and take a short hike to its lighthouse—the only structure on the island—which marks the northernmost point of Sardinia, and is still active today. Built in 1858, the 40-foot-tall lighthouse was the last to be inhabited in the area and is highly regarded for its navigational importance along the Strait of Bonifacio. We’ll explore the interior of the house, which has been abandoned since the 1970s, and enjoy the view of Corsica from the lamp atop. From here, we’ll sail on to visit Corsica’s Iles Lavezzi—another uninhabited island with an abandoned lighthouse and Crimean War shipwreck memorial to explore—where we’ll spend the night in a quiet cove.

If the weather is settled and the seas are calm, we’ll venture into the Strait of Bonifacio. The southern coastline of Corsica, less than 15 miles from Sardinia, is lined by a 150-foot-tall outcropping of white limestone, with the town of Bonifacio cantilevered along its edge. The harbor’s only entryway is fortified by a medieval citadel that sits atop the cliffs. A stunning, rugged rock formation, the coast was immortalized in Homer's the Odyssey when, taking note of the landscape, Homer describes it as “a curious bay with mountain walls of stone to the left and right, and reaching far inland, a narrow entrance opening from the sea where cliffs converged as though to touch and close.” After passing through this curious bay and arriving safely to port, we’ll have the opportunity to explore within the citadel walls, where a preserved medieval city remains mostly as it was more than 1,000 years ago. We’ll be able to explore the citadel and witness how modern civilization has evolved around the original fortified walls. The afternoon will be yours to roam through town, learn about local history with optional guided tours, and enjoy dinner on your own.

It’s onward to La Maddalena, the largest island in the region. An important settlement in Roman times and a major trading post during the Middle Ages, this island was abandoned after the fall of the Roman Empire until the 12th century, and reinhabited by Benedictine monks who were then chased out in the Ottoman raid of 1584. After an unsuccessful attempt by Napoleon Bonaparte to occupy the island in 1793, La Maddalena was established as the Italian Royal Navy base from 1887 and then as a NATO and U.S. Navy Base from 1972–2008. We’ll have the chance to visit abandoned American and Italian World War II bunkers and navy bases, both here and on the neighboring island of Caprera. We can also swim, explore secluded beaches, and take a deep dive into the history of this fascinating island. A safe harbor during rough seas, its coastline is a favorite for sailors in the area, and the comune of La Maddalena is full of character and charm. This evening, we’ll dock along the seawall, right in town, with an opportunity to explore the surrounding architecture and local fare.

Welcome to the abandoned kingdom of Tavolara. This three-mile-long island, characterized by its steep limestone cliffs jutting 1,800 feet above the water, was once home to what was the world’s smallest kingdom. Declared the Kingdom of Tavolara in 1836, only one family, the Bertoleoni family, resided on this island for most of recent history. Now that the island is no longer recognized as a kingdom, the Bertoleonis share their dynastic homeland with about 40 other residents. The descendants of the first king currently run the only two restaurants on the island. During our time here, we’ll speak with Tonino Bertoleoni, the would-be king of Tavolara, and visit his home and family’s restaurant. We’ll discuss the history of the family and the island as well as local ecology. The military history of Tavolara dates back to World War II, when the U.S. Navy acquired its eastern half to build a radiotelegraphy tower for communicating with submarines. We’ll sail past the tower and NATO station, which are still in use.

For the last day of our journey, we’ll continue to explore the island of Tavolara and meet with a longtime local who has seen firsthand how Tavolara has changed over the decades. Hike along the shoreline toward the northern side of the island, taking note of the abandoned World War II bunkers installed to protect the U.S. Navy’s radio-telegraphic station. After departing Tavolara, we’ll sail north toward Olbia. Along the way we’ll drop anchor near a large shipwreck that has served as an unintended man-made reef for more than 50 years. We’ll dinghy, swim, and snorkel as we explore the wreck and the abundant sea life it supports. Returning to Marina Cala dei Sardi this evening for our last dinner and night onboard, we’ll raise a glass to a wonderful, adventurous week together at sea.

Enjoy a final sunrise from the catamaran before saying goodbye to your crew and fellow travelers. From Olbia, depart homeward or on to your next destination.